| allaboutpai.com → Transport Here's the skinny on how to get between Pai and Chiang Mai. Timetable and prices last updated in March 2010. Would you like to spend 4 hours pancaked between a smiling old Thai Yai geezer and a toothless Lisu woman with a half-naked crying baby, who, every time you look away, shifts ever closer and knocks what small fraction of your remaining single buttock is still resting on the seat? No? Then you better read the advice section below to avoid that situation, and many others like it. | ||||
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| Important Advice | Getting between Chiang Mai and Pai is an adventure no matter how you go. Here's a little advice to help make your trip as pleasant as possible. Ordinary Non-Aircon Bus The buses are aging behemoths which crawl up or down the windy mountain roads in 3-4 hours, although to many, the fact that they take it slow is actually a blessing (see minivans below).  When traveling by bus, is absolutely critical to book in advance, or failing that, arrive at least 30 minutes before departure, so that you can reserve (from Chiang Mai) or stake out (from Pai) an actual seat. Buses are often packed beyond Guinness-Book-of-World-Records full, and believe me, you don't want to be standing, leaning, or leaned upon for 4 hours. While riding, always remember that this is part of the entertainment. The bus makes only one stop, for 15 minutes, at a small town called Mae Lao that is 1.5 hours from Pai and 2.5 hours from Chiang Mai, where there are food and toilets. Be sure you leave the bus station (especially Chiang Mai) with an empty bladder! If you've been to Pai before, you may wonder what happened to the "aircon buses." Up until January 2007, the regular buses used be divided between non-aircon and aircon buses (which cost about 40 baht more). Unfortunately, the aircon bus windows do not open and the aging aircon units, when they worked, rarely had the power to keep the bus cool. So the bus company has finally admitted this by charging the same amount they do for the non-aircon buses. If you arrive at the bus station and encounter an ordinary bus whose windows are sealed shut, you may want to wait for the next departure. July 2008 and February 2009 Update: Hmm, seems like they inherited one more "aircon" bus (from Ethiopia?) and are again attempting to charge more for certain discomfort. So be sure to avoid that bus. March 2010 update: seems like they're all gone now, but when you're there, be sure to verify that the windows open. Fortunately, in January 2007, the bus company finally reached into their deep pockets and purchased the Golden Dragon... It all began with the purchase of the #24 Golden Dragon Half-Bus. This is an exciting new transport option that actually doesn't suck:    As of March 2010, there are now four more minibuses (with brand name Higer instead of Golden Dragon) that are also cool. The minibuses are significantly wider and taller than a minivan, with more legroom than a minivan (though the seats are still Thai-narrow), aircon that actually works (unlike a minivan), but it is only half the length of an ordinary bus. The trip is much quieter than an ordinary bus, and in the rides I've taken, the driver actually drove as if his life meant something. Not bad. Minivan This is the fastest way to go. Several minivans a day fly both ways between Pai and Chiang Mai in 2-3 hours, careening around each corner, driven in a way which can only stem from the deeply-held Thai belief in reincarnation. I have been on one minivan where the passengers revolted and refused to let the driver continue. Minivan drivers will hang out at the departure point, usually well past their stated departure time, until they have managed to find and pack 10-12 people into their tiny vehicles. In Chiang Mai, they will often then circle around guesthouses for some more folks to sardine. This effect is intensified in the November-February high season, and even moreso in the recent economy where the driver pays more than 500 B in one-way fuel costs (2006 price). If you are a tall or even average-sized foreigner, strongly consider the minibus, bus or taxi instead (the bus seats are also small and close together, but at least you have a chance of getting a bus seat with no seats in front of it, or sticking your legs out into the aisle). If you are Thai-sized and steel-nerved, the minivan might work out. If you must take a minivan for some reason, consider getting a few friends and renting out a whole minivan for yourself for around 1500-2000 B one way. All minivans technically have air conditioners, but most of them are woefully underpowered during hot times of the year, and the driver often turns them down to save fuel costs. For that reason, sitting in the front or second row may be a life-saver for you. In short,
Despite denials by the government-licensed bus company that runs Pai's tiny bus station, there are actually multiple private firms operating minivan service between Pai and Chiang Mai, including several individual operators, a company called Ping & Pai, and the highly successful and highly dubious Aya Service. Many of these companies also run visa-run trips to Chiang Khong and other places. Taxi There are also covered red pickup truck taxis with two rows of seats in the back ("sawng teeo" in Thai). They tend to drive more sanely than the minivans, however typically you will not be able to see forward and this causes many folks to get ill on the windy road. Also, during dry parts of the year you will get a good coating of road dust. If you can sit in the front, this may well be the most comfortable way to get to Pai. You can fly between Pai and Chiang Mai. Service began on 1 February 2007 (history in my intro) from Nok Mini/Siam General Aviation (SGA), but as of June 2011 is now being offered from a new small carrier Kan Airlines for 1300B one-way. At various points in 2007-2009 the price shot up to 2000B one-way and in the high season there were as many as five flights a day! Monopoly Bus Company Website In 2010, the bus company given a monopoly by the Thai government to run the Chaing Mai-Pai route, Prempracha Transport, entered the 20th century with a new website: http://www.premprachatransport.com Unfortunately, the online schedule is totally confusing and doesn't actually tell you what time the many through buses stop in Pai, or which run is a minibus vs. a minivan (a potentially life-saving distinction). Oh well. Interestingly, in the tiny Pai bus station, Prempracha has produced a separate "FAQ" in unusually good English on signs and fliers (the FAQ is not available online as of March 2010, which makes it the first paper-only FAQ I have ever seen). The FAQ gives the bus/minivan/minibus times out of Pai and also provides fascinating advice like this: Is there any other company who operate service to Chiangmai and Mae Hong Sorn?Ah yes, ladies and gentleman, pay no attention to the huge numbers of Aya, Ping & Pai, and other private minivans who park right outside the bus station and ferry tens or hundreds of passengers a day—they are just figments of your imagination. They simply cannot be, therefore they do not exist. | |||
| Chiang Mai to Pai | Arcade Bus Station Most of your transportation options leave from the Chiang Mai "Arcade" bus station on Kaew Nawarat Road (not the "Chang Peuak" bus station). The bus station's telephone number is As of the last site update, the Pai bus company is still accepting bookings up to 3 days in advance (definitely for the minivans and minibuses and probably also for the regular buses). To make a booking, you must go to Arcade in person and purchase at the Pai bus company's counter; you cannot "IOU" or pay by wire transfer. I highly recommend that you do this to get a good seat. Not all of the bus company employees are even aware of this policy and you may need to politely point out the sign on the window saying that advance booking is possible. For those of you who will be landing at Chiang Mai Airport and then heading to Arcade, you should allow at least 40 minutes of travel time as they are on opposite sides of town and sometimes traffic is nasty (plus extra time to purchase bus tickets in advance, as explained below). Although you can get to Arcade using the private taxis, minivans, or red two-row pickup truck taxis who will tout you endlessly and overcharge you ridiculously (a shared two-row pickup truck taxi to the airport should be no more than 50 baht per person if others are in the vehicle too), it is often cheaper and easier to use the Chiang Mai local buses... Chiang Mai has a wonderful, under-promoted (thanks to mafia lobbying groups who sabotage any attempt by the bus company to promote or advertise) public air-conditioned local bus service from the Airport directly to Arcade. Click here for an old but usable route map (note that north is to the right!). This is a great option with great service and it is only about 15 baht. It goes all around Chiang Mai. Ordinary Non-Aircon Bus To get to Pai, go to the Arcade Bus Station. Buses leave: 07:00 am, 09:00 am, 12:30 pm, 02:30 pm, 04:30 pmCost is: 72 B. In the low season (March-October), the bus company may substitute a minivan for some of the less popular bus runs (especially 7am). Check with the station to be sure. Purchase tickets at the bus station ticket counter. Numbered seats are pre-assigned. All the good seats are gone 30 minutes before departure—show up early or book in advance (more on that below). If someone is sitting in your seat, tell the conductor immediately so he can reseat them before the bus gets packed. Ordinary Aircon Bus Chances are you won't see one of these, but if you do, avoid it: see above. Take the minibus instead. Minibus (Not Minivan) The minibus (an oversized minivan; one minibus is known as the famous #24 Golden Dragon) is an exciting new transport option that actually doesn't suck. For more info, see above. There are usually 4 or 5 such vehicles in service. The minibuses go only to Pai (not all the way to Mae Hong Son). You should book in advance, but failing that, it will be mandatory for you to show up the instant that tickets go on sale that morning in order to get a ticket. The bus company changes the minibus times very frequently, sometimes switching from all-morning departures to all-afternoon, and vice versa. The times also vary by high/low season. If you're going to show up without a ticket, you should probably call the station to get the latest times. Time: 07:00am, 08:00am, 09:00am, 10:00am Cost: 150 baht Minivan and Taxi Although there is an appearance of a set schedule, it seems more like minivan and taxi drivers swarm around the Chiang Mai Arcade bus ticket counter around 08:00am, 10:30am, and sometimes 12:30pm. During peak season, there seem to be minibuses leaving almost every hour until around 05:00pm. You can also book minivans or taxis to Pai from many guesthouses in Chiang Mai, though these often seem to be the same guys that go to Arcade and after they pick you up, they will circle around Chiang Mai until they have a full vehicle. A minivan or taxi ride generally costs 150-160 B per person for a full vehicle. You might also consider renting a whole minivan or taxi for 1500-2000 B one way. See above for some warnings about minivans. Airplane! Regular, daily, two-way airplane service between Chiang Mai and Pai began on 1 February, 2007. See details above. | |||
| Pai to Chiang Mai | Pai Bus Station The humble Pai bus station is right downtown. As of the last site update, the Pai bus company lets you purchase tickets up to 3 days in advance (and you should). The station now has a telephone number, 053 064 307 (+66 53 064 307). Ordinary Non-Aircon Bus If you cannot reserve tickets a few days in advance, you can purchase tickets on the bus. For ordinary buses, there are no assigned seats. It is important to stake out a seat at least 30 minutes in advance to guarantee a place to sit. Buses leave: 08:30 am, 12:00 noon, 02:00 pm, 04:00 pmCost is: 72 B. In the low season (March-October), the bus company may substitute a minivan for some of the less popular bus runs. Ordinary Aircon Bus Chances are you won't see one of these, but if you do, avoid it: see above. Take the minibus instead. Minibus (Not Minivan) The minibus (an oversized minivan; one minibus is known as the famous #24 Golden Dragon) is an exciting new transport option that actually doesn't suck. For more info, see above. There are usually 4 or 5 such vehicles in service. The minibuses go only to Pai (not all the way to Mae Hong Son). You should book in advance, but failing that, it will be mandatory for you to show up the instant that tickets go on sale that morning in order to get a ticket. The bus company changes the minibus times very frequently, sometimes switching from all-morning departures to all-afternoon, and vice versa. The times also vary by high/low season. If you're going to show up without a ticket, you should probably call the station to get the latest times. Time: 08:00am, 12:30pm, 02:30pm, 04:00pm Cost: 150 baht Minivan and Taxi Drivers hang out around Wat Klang (just down the street from the bus station) at roughly the same time as the 8:30am, 10:30am, and 12:00 noon bus departures. There is no set schedule: when they have enough people, they go. The Pai bus company also has its own set of minivans which leave from the bus station itself. During peak season, there seems to be a departure almost every hour until around 05:00pm. A minivan or taxi ride generally costs 150-160 B per person for a full vehicle. You might also consider renting a whole minivan or taxi for 1500-2000 B one way. See above for some warnings about minivans. Airplane! Regular, daily, two-way airplane service between Chiang Mai and Pai began on 1 February, 2007. See details above. | |||
| Support This Site | This hobby site is supported by readers like you. To guarantee future updates, please support the site in one of these ways: | |||
| donate now Use your credit card or PayPal to donate in support of the site. | |||
| Learn Thai with my Thai-English English-Thai Talking Dictionary for Windows PCs. | |||
| Don't leave home without the Thai-English English-Thai Compact Dictionary I co-authored. | |||
| I co-authored this bilingual cultural guidebook to Thai-Western romantic relationships. | |||
| Pick a Thai learning book from my list or buy anything at all from Amazon. | |||
| See Also | You'll probably also like these sites... | |||
 | Tasty morsels of information on Thai food, language, culture, and general silliness. | |||
 | Buzzword bingo, bill the borg, MEZ, lurker's guide to video, and Thai, oh my! | |||
 | Party? Meeting? Request a map, label it yourself, and easily fling it to your friends! | |||
 | See some of the worst the world has to offer, and add some of your own! World's Stupidest Holiday and Birthday Presents - stupidest-presents.com | |||
 | Travel with my friend Nang, who is a great nature, birding, and cultural guide. | |||
 | My English-fluent Thai friend Jeed is a freelance illustrator who is available for hire. | |||
| Copyright | All text and images copyright 1999-2011 Chris Pirazzi unless otherwise indicated. | |||
